My dryer runs and tumbles but the clothes come out wet. Why?

That is the textbook no-heat dryer. The motor and drum are fine, but something in the heat circuit is open. On electric units it is usually a burned heating element or a blown thermal fuse or cutoff. On gas it is most often a tired igniter or valve coils that will not light the burner. We meter the heat parts in order and find the open link, usually in the first half hour, then quote the part before we install it.

Do you cover San Ramon and the Tri-Valley, and how fast can you get out?

Yes. We are based in San Ramon and cover San Ramon, Danville, Alamo, and the rest of the Tri-Valley. Call (925) 999-4095 with the model and symptom, and our dispatcher will confirm the next available appointment window.

I just replaced a part and the dryer stopped heating again. What happened?

Almost always a clogged vent. A packed vent run traps heat and pushes the dryer past its safety limits, which blows the thermal fuse or cutoff. Replace only the fuse and leave the blockage, and the new part fails again in weeks. We say when the run is choked and point you to a vent service; vent cleaning is not a trade we perform.

Is the $99 diagnostic fee separate from the repair?

No. The $99 diagnostic is credited toward the repair, so you are only paying for the fix. If you decide not to repair, the $99 covers the trip and the full diagnosis. Either way you get the exact cause and a written quote before any work starts.

CLOTHES DRYER

Clothes dryer not heating? We fix it.

A dryer that tumbles fine but dries cold is one of the most common calls we run, and it is almost always one cheap part, not a dead machine. The clothes come out damp, the drum spins through the whole cycle, and there is just no heat. On both electric and gas units the fix usually comes down to a single failed component in the heat circuit.

The diagnostic visit is $99 and we credit it toward the repair. You get the exact part and labor in writing before any work starts.

$99 diagnostic, credited toward the repair
Written quote before work
CSLB #1136642

Call (925) 999-4095

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Why this happens

What we look for first.

Burned-out heating element (electric). On an electric dryer the heat comes from a coiled element in a housing behind or under the drum. That coil runs red-hot every cycle and eventually a spot burns through and goes open, so the drum still turns but no heat is made. You get a full tumble cycle and damp clothes at the end. We pull the element and check it for continuity with a meter, and if it is open we replace it. This is the single most common no-heat cause on electric dryers.
Blown thermal fuse. Nearly every dryer has a one-shot thermal fuse on the blower housing or heat duct that opens for good if the dryer overheats. Once it blows it does not reset, so on many models the dryer will run cold, and on some it will not start at all. A blown thermal fuse is rarely the real problem by itself. It is almost always a symptom of a clogged vent run pushing temperatures past the limit. We test the fuse, replace it, and then trace the vent so it does not blow again next month.
Failed thermal cutoff or high-limit thermostat. Sitting near the element or burner are safety thermostats: a high-limit and a thermal cutoff that open when heat climbs too high. When one of these fails open from age or repeated overheating, the heat circuit is broken and the dryer runs cold. Like the thermal fuse, these often trip because airflow is restricted, not because they are simply worn out. We meter each one for continuity, replace the failed part, and check why it overheated in the first place.
Weak igniter, flame sensor, or gas valve coils (gas). A gas dryer makes heat by lighting a burner. The igniter glows hot, the flame sensor confirms it, and the valve coils open the gas. A common failure is an igniter that glows but cracks before it lights, or coils that no longer pull the valve open, so you get a glow and then nothing. A bad flame sensor can also block the sequence. We watch the burner cycle, then meter the igniter, the sensor, and the coils to find which link is broken and replace it.
Open thermistor or cycling thermostat. The control reads drum temperature through a thermistor or an older cycling thermostat to decide when to call for heat. When that sensor drifts or opens, the board can think the drum is already hot and never fire the element or burner, so the dryer runs cold even though the heat hardware is fine. On electronic models this can also throw a temperature fault code. We read the sensor resistance against spec and swap it if it is out of range before condemning anything bigger.
Clogged vent run causing repeat failures. A lint-packed vent or crushed flex duct traps hot air and drives the dryer past its safety limits, which is what kills thermal fuses and cutoffs in the first place. If we just replace the blown fuse and leave the blockage, the new part fails again in weeks. The tell is a dryer that needs two or three cycles to dry and a vent hood outside that barely breathes. We clear the run, confirm good airflow at the wall, and verify the dryer holds temperature. Skipping this step is why a lot of dryers get fixed twice.

How we diagnose and fix it

The walk-in workflow.

01
Pull the model and serial, confirm electric or gas, and read any error code on the display.
02
Run a timed dry on high heat and feel for warmth at the drum and the exhaust while watching the cycle.
03
On electric, meter the heating element, thermal fuse, thermal cutoff, and high-limit for continuity to find the open part.
04
On gas, watch the burner sequence and meter the igniter, flame sensor, and valve coils to see which link breaks.
05
Read the thermistor or cycling thermostat resistance against spec to rule the sensor in or out.
06
Check the vent run and airflow at the wall, then quote the confirmed part and labor in writing before any work.

Pricing and warranty

What it costs. What we stand behind.

$99

Diagnostic visit. Credited toward the repair when you book the work with us.
Typical

Repair pricing is provided in a written estimate after the $99 on-site diagnosis, which is credited toward the repair.
Warranty

You get a parts and labor warranty in writing before we start: from 3 months to 2 years depending on the type of repair. Standard repairs carry 3 months on parts and labor, inverter boards 1 year, and a full sealed-system rebuild 2 years. We put the part, the price, and the labor on the quote before we touch the machine, so you know exactly what is covered.

Before you call

Is your washer or dryer worth repairing?

Repair price depends on the fault and access, especially on stacked units. If the machine cost under $1,000 new, the repair math may not work. We diagnose the machine on site and provide the written repair estimate before any work starts.

Under $1,000 new, repair may not be the right investment. Premium, stacked, and commercial-grade machines are stronger repair candidates, and we will give you a straight recommendation after diagnosis.

Worth checking yourself first: clear the lint trap and the vent path, make sure the load is not overloaded or sitting unbalanced, and look for a kink or clog in the drain hose. If the machine truly is done, put that money toward the replacement. And since we also run an HVAC side of the business, a free assessment visit comes with any furnace, A/C, or heat pump replacement.

FAQ

Clothes dryer questions.

My dryer runs and tumbles but the clothes come out wet. Why?

That is the textbook no-heat dryer. The motor and drum are fine, but something in the heat circuit is open. On electric units it is usually a burned heating element or a blown thermal fuse or cutoff. On gas it is most often a tired igniter or valve coils that will not light the burner. We meter the heat parts in order and find the open link, usually in the first half hour, then quote the part before we install it.
Do you cover San Ramon and the Tri-Valley, and how fast can you get out?

Yes. We are based in San Ramon and cover San Ramon, Danville, Alamo, and the rest of the Tri-Valley. Call (925) 999-4095 with the model and symptom, and our dispatcher will confirm the next available appointment window.
I just replaced a part and the dryer stopped heating again. What happened?

Almost always a clogged vent. A packed vent run traps heat and pushes the dryer past its safety limits, which blows the thermal fuse or cutoff. Replace only the fuse and leave the blockage, and the new part fails again in weeks. We say when the run is choked and point you to a vent service; vent cleaning is not a trade we perform.
Is the $99 diagnostic fee separate from the repair?

No. The $99 diagnostic is credited toward the repair, so you are only paying for the fix. If you decide not to repair, the $99 covers the trip and the full diagnosis. Either way you get the exact cause and a written quote before any work starts.

Same appliance

Other dryer symptoms we cover.

Ready to book the call?

Tell us the model and the symptom. We will quote it.