One burner on your Wolf range is dead and the other five are fine. That narrows it fast. It is the burner cap, the igniter, or the valve serving that burner, and they fail in that order of frequency. The good news is the most common cause costs nothing to fix. Work it in this order.
The cap, first, always
Pull the grate and lift the burner cap. Boil-over, grease, or water from cleaning gets under the cap or into the ports around the rim, and then the spark has nothing to catch. Clean the cap and the burner head ports with a toothbrush, a toothpick for the stubborn holes. Rinse if you need to and let it dry all the way, because a damp burner clicks forever and never lights. A hairdryer on low speeds that up.
Then check the seat. There is an alignment notch the cap should drop right into. Even a slight tilt throws off the spark gap and the burner will not fire. It should sit flush with almost no pressure. Most single-burner calls end right here.
The igniter tip
Cap clean and seated and still nothing? Look at the igniter, the small ceramic-tipped electrode next to the burner head. With the range off, check the ceramic. Carbon you can wipe off gently with a dry cloth. A crack in the insulator you cannot fix, and a cracked igniter has to be replaced by a tech.
Here is the split that tells you where you are. If that burner clicks but will not light, the spark is being made and the trouble is at the cap, the tip, or the gas. If there is no clicking at all at that burner while the others click normally, the fault is upstream of the tip, at the module or the wiring. Either way, if cleaning did not do it, that is where the DIY ends.
Module or wiring
The spark module is one board that feeds all the igniters through separate outputs. When one output dies, that burner goes dead and the rest carry on. Telling a dead output from a chafed wire or a loose connector means pulling the cooktop apart and metering it, working around live electrical parts. That is a tech job, and worth doing right because a bad guess buys the wrong part.
The valve
Spark, no flame, and no gas smell at all can mean the valve serving that burner is restricted or failed. Each Wolf burner has its own. This is not a homeowner repair. Any gas work gets leak-tested after, and a licensed tech is required for the gas side. Full valve failure is less common than the other causes but it does happen, more so on older units.
What you can do, and where it stops
Clean the cap and head, wipe carbon off the igniter tip. Those two free steps clear most dead-burner calls. Everything past that, pulling panels, metering electrical, touching gas, is a tech. Wolf ranges are expensive and specific, so a misdiagnosis means buying the wrong part and a slip on the gas or electrical side is a real hazard.
If cleaning did not fix it, or you are getting no clicking at that burner, Bay Area Appliance Repair Service works Wolf ranges across the Bay Area. The diagnostic is $75, credited to the repair, and most single-burner faults get fixed the same visit once we confirm the cause. Schedule a visit and we will get you on the calendar, often same or next day when we can.